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Friday, October 31, 2008

Weird school system and seasonal magic

Learned an interesting fact about the school I work at: new students transferring from another school don't get graded for two years to give them a chance to catch up. ????????????? TWO YEARS? High school is only 5 years (well, 8 here) and to not get grades for TWO of them? Of course, if they are good in a class, they can opt in to be graded. Otherwise...why work? you don't get a mark anyway. I find this beyond bizarre. What's wrong with doing poorly for one semester then catching up on the next? You not going to be that nuclear physicist if you have one poor mark, one semester, out of 8 years of high school? In a couple of weeks I'll be teaching the Headmaster English so maybe I'll inquire...

Autumn. October 31 today. Happy Hallowe'en! In school this week I had classes with windows looking onto the courtyard "garden" where the children play. The school has a couple centuries under its belt, so the trees are gorgeous and mature and in full fall colour. As I'm in class the sun catches the leaves in a glorious glow and they drift past the window as they fall. It's unbelievably beautiful.
It's also been 15-20 degrees out in daytime, so it seems a bit early for Christmas decorations but last week I went for a walk around the Ring (road which used to be the city walls surrounding Vienna) and noticed in front of the Rathaus (city hall, but I like Rat House. It seems appropriate somehow) all the huts were up already preparing for the Christkindlmarkt (Christ Child Market, the Christ Child no longer being the babe in the manger but some ethereal female angel in lieu of Santa Claus). And since mid-September, the new drogerie (drug store, without drugs--no pharmacy) across the street has had Santas clambering up its sparkling new facade. We complain in N.A. about the commercialisation of Christmas, but I tell you a country that is largely unfamiliar with Hallowe'en and Thanksgiving has no reason to wait until November to start with Christmas decorations and displays. However, Austria does Christmas very, very, very well indeed. It is a magical time. No late shopping though. Since this is a country with very early closing hours and no Sunday shopping (at ALL) I guess the retailers want to get all their Christmas earnings when they can. I am already sick with anticipation about the Christmas markets. I only managed 3 of them last year; I'm convinced I can do better this year. They are a marvel of impressions: wooden huts side by side, row by row, lit up and selling their wares, be it handcrafted wooden toys, artisan cheeses, glassblowers, honey and handmade beeswax candles sold by the apiarist himself, and of course the many stalls selling Punsch and Gluehwein (hot mulled wine) with people milling about stamping their feet, redcheeked from the cold. There's also a penchant for dark bread with salted lard on top. Sounds gross, but goes surprisingly well with the sweet Punsch. I also love the handmade advent wreaths (Adventskränze) with flowers and herbs and leaves surrounding the candles.
Considering it is warm enough to go out without a coat, just a top and pashmina, it seems peculiar to be anticipating Christmas, but I am! I'm hoping for a lot of snow this year. Our summer was rainy and cool compared the previous year (several humid days last year between 36 and 40 celcius) but we've had the autumn to make up for it, so I'm ready for toques and boots and pink cheeks and scarves and festive cheer.

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