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Sunday, October 19, 2008

Perfect Autumn

Today we went to Laxenburg for the day. It is a small town about 17 km from Vienna, with a beautiful Schloss and park. After lunch at the Rathaus Stüberl (city hall pub, where I had a Käsekrainer, locally known as an Eitriger, or "pus", due to the white cheese in a sausage which oozes out when you bite into it. Num Num:) in the sun, we happened upon a tiny, wonderful museum, rather optimistically called "Laxenburg Museum". The curator was a tiny, warm woman who greeted us graciously and drew us in. On exhibit is a Bulgarian painter named Miglena Alexandrova. I fell in love with some of her paintings--various inspirations from Klimt and Van Gogh but the style absolutely, uniquely, her own. I didn't find her work overly expensive for what it is--I'm dreadfully tempted by a piece I definitely can't afford though. I was both enthused and moved by her colours and iconography. Now how do I get me the pieces I want? HMMM...have no firstborn to sell...when will I be able to afford the art I want? Maybe, say, after I can afford to move my stuff to Europe from the storage locker somewhere in the bowels of Richmond? I want 3 pieces from her collection...total 4200 Euro. Now is that too much to ask out of life? Again...HMMM. I wonder if she'd take Hazuki in trade (sorry Puddy Tat). But paintings, no matter how lovely, don't wake you by jamming themselves in the negligable space between man and wife purring loudly so the first thing wife experiences in the morning is silky fur pressed against her cheek with the sounds of a motor running. Can't trade that for art. It's performance art, Cat Style.

Our lovely curator recommended walking to the "pond" in the castle park. So we did...and it was amazing. The fall colours were out in full glorious golden force, with miles of parkland and lakes and canals. Not to mention various 16th century bridges and grotto and "outbuildings" like the mini-castle (also 16th century) with a tiny passenger ferry on a cable to get you to the island. We rented a peddle boat and cruised around just before dusk. There was another couple on the lake--but they were on a floating wicker sofa. With a motor and boatsman. We had to WORK to get around. :) There was also a remarkable children's playground, and a jumping ring/corral for horses (don't know the real name for it--but also the same age but still in use). There are paths only for riding as well. Apparently people come in the winter to skate on the canals too. It is a place to which we want to return. There's a "Postbus" from just down the street that takes us there in 35 minutes, for about $2.50. The Postbuses date from the days when the "Post" wagons carried passengers and dropped them off at Hotels Zur Post (Inns). These still exist in every village. I told CK that I want to stay in one--just for the history. After all the 17th/18th/19th literature I've studied I want to feel like I'm recreating a journey--albeit dressed in technology--that Jane might have taken. Had Austen ever left Hampshire.
Smelling the leaves, seeing the turning trees, hearing the lapping of the water, all made CK nostalgic for nature today. When we got home tonight, he wrote up a list of what he wants: a mountain hut for the weekends, easily accessible by car even in winter, no other houses in sight. Preferably in Styria or Kaernton. There are countless mountain huts here in Austria, most of which, if they are still in use, are used as inns to keep them financially viable. So we'll start looking. I think what he's aiming for is a sort of time-share--but ideally only with the owner. It sounds like heaven.

Although Vienna is no bigger than Vancouver, due to its layout and history it feels like a more urban centre. Every "house" (apartment building) nearly is mixed-use (see Jane Jacobs, "The Death and Life of Great American Cities" for urban geography inspiration). That makes city living easy, viable and safe--but essentially urban. We are slowly getting to know the parks around our area, which helps us get into "the nature" as people here say. There's another "Kur Zentrum" Oberlaa (cure centre, which means holistic spa) about 15 min.'s drive away, with, again, acres of parkland and trails and "ponds", which are more like small lakes. I believe it is due to the sheer numbers of people in Europe in a relatively small landmass that make people here value their (extensive and well-cared-for) green spaces. Many of my students go "to the mountains" on their weekends. They hike a lot here. Sunday family outings often involve church in the morning (VERY Catholic country), then a drive to the mountains for a hike in the afternoon.


Well, after a perfect day, it's bedtime. I'd plans to make some more salt bars (cold-process soap with a 1:1 ratio of sea salt to oils) tonight but it's going to be a short night before a long week. So instead I mixed the essential oils I want to use to scent the soap so they can blend overnight, and I have oatmeal and sea salt and fennel soaking in distilled water to mix with lye and oils tomorrow. I love my salt soap. Taking two drying ingrediants--coconut oil and salt--and mixing them to create an amazingly moisturizing soap is a miracle of synergy. I made some last week with the intent of creating an Earl Grey tea scent in a "winter" bar for dry skin in wintry air--and it worked! They smell like Earl Grey and they are like lotion on your skin after showering. And they've not even fully cured. They don't cut well (too hard) so they ain't the purtiest gals on the block but oh! how I love them:) The latest creative fad for me...addictive process. This week I have to carve out some time in my insane schedule to meet with a local fashion designer to arrange for her to sell my soap in her shop. A mutual friend is setting this up and I'm very excited about it. I also have a meeting with a company to teach English to a logistics company. Great pay, difficult schedule. How did my simple life get so busy AGAIN? I vowed when I moved to Vienna I would embrace the quiet life of solitude and introspection I long for. So where is It?

2 comments:

Wily Commuter said...

MMMMMMmmmmmm soapy goodness! I am curious about your salt bars, and anything that smells of earl grey must be fine. I hope to hear more about your bid to go pro on the soapmaking front.

Debra said...

Salt bars are fun stuff. I made a recipe I loved, it was simply great. Then I made it again, and messed up. These babies are rock hard, weeping salt, and not a bubble in sight. However the bad batch smells terrific (gee your soap smells terrific!)